AN INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE FIBRE

Cotton:
Cotton claims a 36-percent share of the textile fibers market. The fiber is prized for its comfortable, soft, breathable, absorbent qualities, which make it the fiber of choice for numerous apparel articles and a range of other textile products. With recent developments of various technical treatments, it also is finding its way into performance markets, such as athletic and outdoor apparel, that traditionally that have been dominated by man-made fibers. Worldwide, cotton is grown on 2.5 percent of the cultivated agricultural land and uses 3 percent of the water required for agricultural production.
Biotechnology plays a major role in giving the plants characteristics that helps to reduce their vulnerability to pests and increase productivity and chemical pesticides and herbicides are used to protect the crops. Organic cotton producers, by contrast, plant non-genetically modified seeds and practice methods such as crop rotation; soil fortification through the addition of organic matter.
Properties of cotton fibres considered by cotton spinners:Fibre fineness- It influences spinning limit, yarn strength, yarn evenness, yarn fullness, drape etc. Micronaire value (microgram per inch)of fibre is use to measure the fineness scale of cotton fibre. Micronaire value lies between 3.3-4.9.

Fibre length: It influences the spinning limit, yarn strength, yarn evenness, handle of product, luster of product, yarn hairiness and productivity. Staple length of cotton fibre is 26-32mm.

Fibre maturity: It influences loss of yarn strength, neppiness, a high proportion of short fibre, varying dyeability and processing difficulties.

Fibre strength: Very weak cotton tend to rupture during processing, since binding of the fibres into the yarn is achieved mainly by twisting and thus can exploit at most 30-70% of the strength of the material. Breaking strength of cotton fibre is 15-40 cN/ tex.
Why strength of wet cotton fiber is greater than dry cotton fiber?Answer: Cotton is a crystalline fibre. It has more than 60% crystalline region and the rest are amorphous region. Also there are many hydrogen bond that made it strong. When cotton is wetted amorphous portion of cotton temporary arranges a structure that can create 5% more hydrogen bond. This hydrogen bond increase the strength of wet cotton.

Viscose :Rayon is a manufactured regenerated cellulose fiber. Because it is produced from naturally occurring polymers, it is neither a truly synthetic fiber nor a natural fiber; it is a semi-synthetic or artificial fiber. Rayon is known by the name “Viscose rayon” and “artificial silk” in the textile industry. It usually has a high luster quality giving it a bright sheen.
Rayon was the first manufactured fibre. The term rayon was officially adopted by the textile industry. Like most manmade fibres rayon is not synthetic. It is made from wood pulp, a naturally – occurring, cellulose based material. As a result rayon properties are most similar to those of natural cellulosic fibres. Such as cotton or linen, than those of thermoplastic ,petroleum based synthetic fibres such as nylon or polyester.
Generally Eucalyptus trees is used as a raw material for manufacturing rayon.
Here I want to clear some perplexing point regarding viscose rayon fibre.

01. Rayon is the generic name of this Regenerated Cellulose fibre.

02. The U. S. Trade Commission defines rayon as "manmade textile fibers and filaments composed of regenerated cellulose".

03. Viscose is just one of the manufacturing process of preparing rayon & rayon produced form viscose process is called viscose rayon.

04. The process of making viscose rayon (viscose process) was discovered by English chemist Charles Frederick Cross and his collaborators Edward John Bevan and Clayton beadle in 1891. In 1904 the British rights of the viscose process were purchased by Courtaulds Ltd. who developed it into the most successful method of rayon in the world. Courtaulds Ltd. produced the first commercial viscose rayon in 1905

Different Method of Manufacturing Rayon:
Rayon's versatility is the result of the fiber being chemically and structurally engineered by making use of the properties of cellulose from which it is made. However, it is somewhat difficult to control uniformity between batches and it also requires high labor involvement. The continuous process is the main method for producing rayon. Different methods of production lead to distinctly different rayon fibers.

01. Nitrocellulose

02. Acetate method

03. Cuprammonium method

04. Viscose method

Of the methods mentioned, the viscose method is relatively inexpensive.

Modification of Viscose Rayon:

01. Cross-sectional Modification

02. Bubble-filled Filaments:

03. Spun-dyed Filament & Staple

04. Crimp

05. Surface Modified Yarn

06. High Tenacity Rayon:

07. High wet Modulus Rayons

08. Modal Fibre

09. Polynosic Rayon:

10. Tencel Rayon

One of viscose strengths is its versatility and ability to bend easily with many fibres. Sometimes to reduce cost other times for luster , softness or absorbency and resulting comfort.

Polyester:
Introduction: Polyester is a polymer with ester functional group as a main chain. This is also known by other name Terylene. It is available in many forms but commonly it is used as PET (polyethylene terephthalate).Other forms which are known are polycarbonate and plant cuticles or cutin. Polyesters are easily flammables on high temperatures. Due to its wrinkle resistance capacity it is widely spun together with other natural fibres. Liquid crystalline polymers have high heat resistance capacity so it is used in jet engines as an abradable seal. Its one wide spread application in the medical field is for making of heart valves. Some properties of Polyester are given below:

Properties:
• Wrinkle resistance

• Heat resistance

• Good mechanical properties

• Polymerization and cross linking is possible

• Thixotropic properties

• Azeotrophe esterification is possible

• Alcoholic transesterification is possible

• Thermoplastic qualities

• Combustible at high temperatures

• Thermosetting property

• Cross linking and polymerization is possible through exothermic reactions

Application of Polyester:

• Widely used in apparels

• Fiberfill is used in cushion padding, comforters and in stuff pillows

• Woven polyester fabric is used in home furnishing

• Medical Implants

• In jet engines as abradable seal

• Spun together with natural fibres to give strength

• Useful in making of films and bottles

• Also useful in holograms, liquid crystal displays, filters and tarpaulin

• Useful in insulating tapes, film insulation for wire and dielectric film for capacitors

• In auto-body fillers, casting materials and fibreglass laminating resins (because of thermosetting property)

• Useful in finishing of high quality wooden products

Acrylic fibre
Introduction 

Acrylic fibre is a synthetic fibre, which is made from polymer. Methyl acrylate and vinyl acetate are comonomers of acrylic fibre. This polymer is obtained by free radical polymerization. Acrylic fibre has wool like feeling and it is light weight, warm and soft.

Properties

• Resistant to moths, chemicals and oils

• Resistant to deterioration from sunlight exposure

• It dyes well

• Has excellent colorfastness

• It retains its shape

• Resists wrinkles and shrinkage

• Quick dry and easy care

• Very good heat retention

• Durability and quick dry qualities

• Quick water transport and weather resistant

Application of Acrylic fibre

• Use in the knitwear section

• In sportswear

• In industry and apparel

• Hygienic, barrier cloth and bactericidal

• Domestic textiles

• Cement reinforcement

• Producer dyed fabrics

• Carpet

Protein fibre

Introduction
Protein fibre is available in chitin and chitosan form. It has a chemical structure which is very similar to rayon. Chittin/chitosan is natural polysaccharide produced biologically by the living organisms on the earth. It is white porous polysaccharide. It is safe material to use and widely used in the different applications.

Properties

• Antimicrobial activity (Inhibits bacterial growth)

• Flocculation (Purifies waste waters)

• Salt adsorption (Lowers high blood pressure)

• Hemostatic action (bleeding easily stopped)

• Heavy metal adsorption (Adsorbs and removes radioactive substances)

• Cell activation (Promotes Iysozyme secretion)

• Slow releasing action (permits slow and steady release of medicines)

• Immunization (enhances immunity of body against diseases)

• Lowering of cholesterol (catches cholesterol and lowers its level)

• Biodegradation (being organic material it is degraded by microorganisms)

• Acceleration of skin tissue regeneration (thin non woven fabric is applied to burns)

• Oil absorption inhibition (helps to remove excess fat from body)

• Body activation (helps in wound healing)

Application of Protein fibre

Gymnastic uniform like sweats, t-shirts and shirts, polo shirts, blouse, cardigan

House interior like pillow cover and bedcover

Sports wear like uniform of baseball team, underwear for judo, wristband, socks with five toes

Underwear like bikini, lingerie and mens brief

Outer wear like blankets

Nylon Fibre
Introduction: A manufactured fibre in which the fibre forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85% of the amide-linkages are attached directly (-CO-NH-) to two aliphatic groups. This is the definition of Nylon fibre by Federal Trade Commissions. The properties of Nylon fibre are as follows:

Properties:

• Dries quickly

• Easy to launder

• Strong and elastic

• Responsive to heat setting and resilient

• Retains its shape

• Polyamide 6 nylon6 PA-6 has thermoplastic property

• Lower mould shrinkage

• Good fatigue resistance

Application of Nylon Fibre:

• Used in hosiery

• Useful in making of swimwear, windbreakers, draperies, bedspreads, shorts track pants and active wear

• Also use in parachutes

• Useful in making of combat uniforms, flak vests, tires and life vests

• Nylon 6/6 is used in rollers, gears, nut and bolts, cams, bearings, electrical connectors, coil formers, kitchen utensils, combs, fuel tanks of cars and power tool housings

• Nylon 6/10 is useful in electrical components like bobbins, coil formers, tubing and wire jacketing

Glass Fibre
Introduction: Glass fibre is obtained from the fine fibres of the glass. Fibre glass is formed from fine silica strands. Glass itself is a crystalline solid. Basically glass fibre is a polymer. The common properties of glass fibre are as follows.

Properties

• High strength

• Non flammable

• Relatively insensitive to moisture

• Good electrical insulation

• High production rates

• Relatively low density

• Good chemical resistance

• Relatively low fatigue resistance

• Good strength properties in various conditions

• Relatively low density

• Low modulus

• Good electrical resistance

• Low cost

Application of Glass fibre

• Reinforcement material in polymer matrix composites

• Laminate structures can be used in storage tanks

• Woven fabrics are used in production of surfboards, composite panels and other similar devices

• Useful for good thermal insulation

Carbon Fibre:
Introduction: Carbon fibre is a well known textile material. In this graphite crystalline structures are arranged in a manner that it gives fibrous material. Carbon fibre is also available by oil/coal pitch after giving them certain heat treatment. It is broadly divided into the categories like, PAN-based carbon fibre, Pitch based carbon fibre, Mesophase pitch based carbon fibre, isotropic pitch based carbon fibre, Rayon-based carbon fibres and gas-phase-based carbon fibres. The properties of carbon fibre are as follows:

Properties:

• Physical strength

• Specific toughness

• Light weight

• High dimensional stability

• Low coefficient of thermal expansion

• Low abrasion

• Good vibration strength, damping and toughness

• Biological inertness and x-ray permeability

• Chemical inertness

• High corrosion resistance

• Fatigue resistance, self-lubrication, high damping

• Electrical conductivity

• Electromagnetic properties

Application of Carbon Fibre:

• Sporting goods, aerospace, marine and road transport

• Pickup arms, audio equipment, robot arms, Hi-fi equipment and loudspeakers

• Medical applications in x-ray and surgery equipment, ligament and tendon repair and in implants

• Nuclear field, chemical industry, pumps, seals, valves and its components in process plants

• Textile machinery, genera engineering

• Radiological equipment

• Large generator retaining rings

• Novel tooling, brushes, automobile hoods casings and bases for electronic equipments

• EMI and RF shielding

• Missiles, aircraft brakes, aerospace antenna and support structure,

• Large telescopes, waveguides for stable high-frequency (GHz) precision measurement frames and optical benches

Polyethylene
Introduction: Polyethylene is a polymer. Many no. of ethylene monomers join with each in the synthesis of polyethylene polymer. Polyethylene is obtained by the polymerization of ethane. Cationic coordination polymerization, anionic addition polymerization, radical polymerization and ion polymerization are the different methods by which polyethylene can be produced. Every method gives different types of polyethylene. Mechanical properties of Polyethylene depend on the molecular weight, crystal grouping and branching. Some properties are as follows:

Properties:

• Very good ultra violet resistance

• Excellent electrical and chemical resistance

• Low moisture absorption level

• Very good abrasion resistance

• Low specific gravity

• Higher energy is needed to break because of specific modulus and high specific strength

Application of polyethylene

• Medical implants

• Cable and marine ropes

• Sail cloth

• Composites like Pressure vessel boat hulls, sports equipment, impact shields

• Fish netting

• Concrete reinforcement

• Protective clothing

• Can be used in radar protective cover because of its low dielectric constant

• Can be used as a lining material of a pond which collects evaporation of water and containment from industrial plants

• Useful in geotextile applications

Polypropylene
Introduction: Polypropylene is a polymer made from addition of many propylene monomers. It has good resistant capacity to many acids, bases and chemical solvents. Its melting point is 160 °C (320 °F) so it is used in plastic materials for medical laboratories as an autoclave. Thin sheets of polypropylene are also used in dielectrics. Some properties of Polypropylene are given below:

Properties:

• Thermoplastic property
• Good strength
• Good environmental resistance
• Low density, hence light weight
• Good toughness
• Ability to be remoulded

Application of Polypropylene Fibre:

• Textile industry

• Good impact properties even at low temperatures and slightly increased elongation at break

• Extruded pipes, automotive like battery cases and bumpers, blow moulded containers

• Boat bodies, blow moulded medical articles and seat shells.

• Automotive Industry (load floors, valve covers, under engine covers, seat frames, front ends, battery trays, bumper beams, load floors and rocker panels)

• Aerospace Industry (overhead storage compartments and fuselage wall linings, fasteners, helicopter fairings, missile and aircraft stabilizer fins, engine housings, ducting, panels and wing ribs)

• Construction Industry (Thermosplastic composites for lightweight structural, pipes insulating panels, structural profiles and concrete rebars)

• Materials Handling (cargo containers and pallets)


Metal fibre 

Introduction
Metallic fibre is used in all kinds of clothes from everyday wear to party wear and evening wear. Metallic fibre is commonly used in upholestry. Basic types of metallic yarns are co-creating metallic yarns, m-type metallic yarn, mh-type metallic yarn, mx-type metallic yarn, s-type metallic yarn and st-type metallic yarn.

Properties

• Good thermal and electrical conduction
• Wear resistance and corrosion
• Elastic module and high intensity
• Protection from magnetism and static and radiation
• Better shield effect

Application of Metal fibre

• Automotive manufacturing
• Petrochemistry
• Environmental protection
• Automobile safe gasbag
• Shield dress of protection from magnetism
• Bulletproof vests
• Anti-fake material
• Dust proof ultra clean clothes

Diversified use of Enzymes in Bio-technology for Textile Wet Processing

What are enzymes?

Enzymes are macromolecular biological catalysts. They are responsible for thousands of metabolic processes that sustain life.Enzymes are highly selective catalysts, both greatly accelerating the rate and greatly enhancing the specificity of metabolic chemical reactions. Most enzymes are proteins, although some catalytic RNA molecules have been identified. Enzymes adopt a specific three-dimensional structure, and may employ organic (e.g. biotin) and inorganic (e.g. magnesium ion) cofactors to assist in catalysis.

Role of enzymes in Bio-technology for textile wet processing:

Among the all micro-organisms enzymes are widely used in textile sectors. They are so suitable that replace the uses of toxic chemicals, reduce activation energy, maximum result with minimum cost as well as environment friendly. So they are widely used in singeing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, ETP plant, bio-polishing, finishing etc and play an important role in textile sectors.

Enzymes and their classifications:

Enzymes, the micro-organism which is considered as the heart of the bio-technology, are consists of proteins, having a high molecular weight, consist of long chain of amino acids held together by peptide bonds. They are present in all living cells and acts as a catalyst in bio-chemical reactions.

According their protein size (may be tubular or round) and capability to attack substrate they are classified into two major groups. They are:

1. Hydrolase enzymes.

2. Oxidoreductase enzymes

Applications of hydrolase enzymes in textile wet processing:

Enzyme name	Substrate attack	Textile application
1.Amylase	Starch	Starch de-sizing.
2.Cellulase	Cellulose	1.bio –polishing
3.Pectinase	Pectin	Bio–scouring replace caustic soda
4.Catalase	Peroxides	Use as peroxide killer.
5.Protease	Protein molecules	Use in silk & wool processing.

Applications of oxidoreductase enzymes in textile wet processing:

Enzyme name	Substrate attack	Textile application
1.Laccase	Color-chromophore and pigments.	1. Discoloration of colored effluent.
2. Azo reductase.	Azo Color-chromophore and pigments.	Discoloration of azo dyes effluent.
3.peroxidase	Color-chromophore and pigments.	Discoloration of ramazol of basic dye effluent.
4. Glucose oxidases	Pigments	1.Bio bleaching of cotton

Condition for maximum efficiency of enzymes:

The maximum efficiency of any enzyme depends on some criterion. They are:

Temperature of the processing bath.

P^H of the bath.

Concentration of enzymes.

Inhibitors.

A short list of different condition for de-sizing enzymes to get maximum efficiency is given below:

Types of enzymes	Temperature (0C)	PH	Concentration
1.Pancreatic	50-55	7-7.5	1-5 mg/l
2.Malt extractor	55-60	5.5-6.5	3-20mg/l
3.Bacterial	65-70	5.5-7.5	.5-3gm/l

Application of different bio -technology in textile wet processing:

Bio-desizing:

De-sizing is a mandatory process in textile wet processing to remove size materials from warp yarns in order to increase dye absorbency. Traditionally two methods are applied. They are-

Hydrolytic method

Oxidative method

In Hydrolytic method desizing is carried out by using high concentrate Caustic Soda (Na0H) (.4%-.5%) at a temperature 60-70^oC and at a P^H = (9.5-10.5) or, highly concentrate Hydrochloric acid (HCl) (.5%-1%) at a temperature 40-50⁰C and P^H= (4-5) is used at a liquor ratio 1:10.

In oxidative method toxic Chlorite and Bromite is used. But this process can be easily carried by using analyze Enzymes replacing the use of toxic chemicals such as NaOH, HCl, Chlorite, Bromite, at a low temperature and less liquor ratio(1:10) to reduce production cost. Since the amylase just hydrolyzes (1-4,∞) glucosidic linkage of amylase and emylopectins of starch to convert into soluble dextrin

The advantages of using Amylase enzyme in de -sizing:-

Replace using harsh chemical like NaOH, HCl

Reduce Vaporization of toxic Chlorine and Bromine

Reduce BOD value of starch in waste water to save aquatic animals and plants.

Low temperature, low liquor ratio that is by using amylase the liquor ratio reduce to 1:6 that indicates 

To process 10 tonne fabric it will reduce 40 m³ water to be wastage. So, it is a huge amount of water to be saved as well as to reduce cost for only one industry. Think about all industries, the quantity will cut a huge figure.

Bio-scouring:-

The step after de-sizing is scouring and it is also mandatory step in wet processing. Traditionally, alkaline chemicals such as Caustic Soda (NaOH) are used to remove the non-cellulosic components from fiber to increase dye-absorbency. But the process is very concern to environment. Because-

NaOH causes the raise of P^H in surface water

It requires high temperature (100-110⁰C) which causes emission of huge amount of CO & CO₂.

It not only removes the non-cellulosic components but also attack cellulosic components which degrade fabric strength.

4. The alarming result is that, these hazardous chemicals have high BOD&, COD value in waste water and also increase the overall production cost.

But simply using Bio- Technology we can replace excess NaOH and reduce environment pollution,

The commonly used enzymes in Bio-scouring are-

Pectinase – to decompose pectin substance

Protease- to decompose protein

Lipases- for fats and waxes.

Their synchronizing combination give best result at low temperature, 65^OC, low energy level without using environmental hazardous chemicals like

Bio-bleaching:-

To achieve high degree of whiteness, as well as to increase dye absorbency power, we have to remove natural color from the fiber. Universally H₂O₂ (Hydrogen Peroxide) is used as bleaching agent. But the process has some considerable drawback. They are:

The process consumes large quality of chemicals, water and energy because environmental pollution and increase production cost.

The residual H₂0₂ should be killed to get best result in dyeing and finishing by repeated washing causes water pollution.

Although there is no such enzyme which is capable of imparting full satisfactory bleaching condition .The advantage of use Peroxidases enzymes is that the process get dynamicity since it activate oxidizing agent like H ₂O₂.

The third one is the most promising movement of glucose oxidases as like Peroxidases enzymes capable of producing hydrogen Peroxide and gluconic acid from glucose and oxygen. The most significance is that the

1. Re -use of sugar contaminated effluent from other wet processing steps.

2. Moreover by using enzymes scouring and bleaching can be done in the single stage since their functions are fixed.

Peroxide killing:-

After bleaching the residual H₂O₂ must be killed and traditionally repeated washing is done which causes wastage of huge water. But by simply using hydrolase type enzymes H₂O₂ can easily decomposed into H₂0 + 0₂. Beside, dyeing can be done in the same bath since the hydrolase enzymes don’t attack the reactive dyes.

If we done dyeing and peroxide killing in the same bath, to process 1000kg fabric (cotton) it will reduce 10 m³ (10 tonne) water to be wastage. When it is considered for all industries, the figure will cut a good one.

Bio-polishing:-

The process can be applied before dyeing or after dyeing or both. The main principle is to reduce floating fibers from the fabric surface to make a smooth and high degree of levelness.

Conventionally it is done by fire-flame and heated beam at a temperature (100-120^oC) which causes high power consumption as well as emission of large volume of CO₂ causes increasing of surface temperature. But by simply using cellulose enzymes we can do it easily without polluting the environment at a fix temperature 65⁰C only. Their other contribution is that, they replace the use of volcano lava stone to achieve a high degree of color fading in denim processing to save cost as well as air pollution.

Bio-Washing:

Finishing is mandatory since it increase the lusturous appearance to attract the customers. Conventionally they are done by repeated washing with chemicals, stone wash, dry cleaning agent, soap, detergent etc. But now by using enzymes this process is done without using these toxic chemicals with a liquor ratio 1:5 in garments washing.

Enzymes use in garments washing.

Enzymes	Effective for
1.cellulases	Color brightening, softening, soil remover.
2.Proteases	Grass, blood, egg stains.
3.Lipases	Butter, salad oil.

Application of Industrial Engineering In Apparel Manufacturing

Different Terms Used In IE:

·         Work Study

·         Method Study

·         Time Study

·         Motion Analysis

·         Productivity

·         KPI (key of performance Indicator)

·         SMV

Calculation of  SAM/SMV:            

Steps for calculating Standard Allocated Minute( SAM) or Standard minute value(SMV) Through Time Study:

Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.

Step 2: Capture cycle time for that operation by stop watch standing by side of the operator. (cycle time -total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation). Do time study for consecutive five cycles. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time we get from time study is called cycle time.

Basic Time = Cycle Time X Performance rating

* Performance rating: Performance rating means at what performance level operator doing the job, considering his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes

Step 3: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now we get Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes.

Operator On-Standard Efficiency:

Operator on-standard efficiency (%) = Total minute produced /Total on-standard minute attended *100%
Where,
Total minutes produced = Total pieces made by an operator X SAM of the operation [minutes]
Total on-standard minute attended = (Total hours worked – Loss time) x 60 [minutes]

Example: An operator was doing an operation of SAM 0.50 minutes. In an 8 hours shift day he produces 400 pieces. Operator was idle ‘waiting for work’ for 30 minutes and his machine broke down for 15 minutes in hours shift. So according to the efficiency calculating formula, that operator’s on-standard efficiency

= (400 x 0.50) / {480 – (30 +15)}*100%
= 200/435*100%
= 45.98%

Efficiency of a Production Line:

Line efficiency = Total minutes produced by the line/total minutes attended by all operators

 a. Total minutes produced by the line: To get total produced minutes multiply total production pieces by SAM
 b. Total minutes attended by the all operators in the line: Multiply number of operators by daily working hours.

Minute cost of Operator:

 1. Labor cost per minute = (Monthly salary of an operators/Total minutes available in the month) at 100% efficiency. 

Example:                             

 Operator monthly salary is 5000.00 tk
Total available capacity per month (in minute) = 26 working days*8 hours/day*60=12,480 minutes

So, per minute cost of the direct labor = 5000/12480 = 0.4006 tk at 100% efficiency

CM cost = (SAM of the garment * Minute cost of the labor)/Line efficiency(%)

If Sewing SAM is 15 minutes and line perform at 50% efficiency then estimated garment make cost = 15*0.40/50% =12 Tk And Cutting SAM is 2 minutes and cutting room perform at 50% efficiency then estimated cutting cost = 2*0.40/50%=1.6 tk
So, Total estimated CM cost of the garment = (12.00+1.60) = 13.60 Tk

বাংলাদেশের গার্মেন্টস শীল্প শ্রমিক, জন্মই যেন তাদের আজন্ম পাপ!

বাংলাদেশে দেশি বিদেশী চক্রান্ত তথা শ্রমিক অসন্তোষের কারণে কারখানা ভাংচুর, রাস্তা অবরোধ, গাড়ি ও যানবাহনের ক্ষতি করা প্রভৃতি অহরহই ঘটছে। এতে শুধু গার্মেন্টস শিল্পের আর্থিক ক্ষতি নয়, ধ্বংস হচ্ছে দেশের কোটি কোটি টাকার সম্পদ এবং বিপর্যস্ত হচ্ছে দেশের জনজীবন।
যেমন কিছুদিন আগে আমাদের নৌপরিবহনমন্ত্রী শাহাজানখান নিজেকে বাদশা শাহজাহান সমতুল্য মনে করে গঠন করেছেন গার্মেন্টস শ্রমিক সমন্বয় পরিষদ নামের একটি সংগঠন। এরই অংশ হিসেবে মজুরি বাড়ানোর মতো জনপ্রিয় বিষয় সামনে রেখে আরপ্রশাসনের সহায়তায় আয়োজন করা হয় প্রথম মহাসমাবেশ। দ্বিধা জাগে ওনার মনে কি পোশাক শ্রমিকদের ভালবাসার (লাভের) তাজমহল বানানোর খায়েশ জেগেছে নাকি নির্বাচন উপলক্ষে ওনাদের ভোট ব্যাংক সমৃদ্ধ করার নিমিত্তে গার্মেন্টস ও টেক্সটাইল শিল্পের উপর প্রতক্ষ ও পরোক্ষভাবে নির্ভরশীল ১৫-২০ মিলিয়ন লোকের সামনে নুন্যতম মজুরী ৮০০০ টাকা করার মুলো ঝুলিয়ে তাদেরকে গিনিপিগ হিসেবে ব্যাবহার করছেন!!
সম্প্রতি পোশাক শ্রমিকের অসন্তোষের মুলে শ্রমিকের কম মুজরি নয়, দায়ী সরকারের ব্যক্তিবর্গের উস্কানি এবং অবহেলা। এসব শিক্ষার আলোবঞ্চিত শ্রমিকদের ব্যবহার করে তারা আজ বিশাল ফায়েদা লুটতে মরিয়া। সরকার নিজেই পোশাকশ্রমিকদের সমাবেশে আয়োজন করে, নিজেই নিজেদের কাছে শ্রমিকদের মজুরি বাড়ানোর দাবি করে।
যে দেশে ৫০০০ টাকায় MBA/BBA এবং ৮০০০ টাকায় BSC Engineer পাওয়া যায় সেখানে এক জন কম বা অশিক্ষিত শ্রমিকের নিম্নবেতন ৮০০০ টাকা কতটা যুক্তি যুক্ত ? হাজার হাজার সরকারি চাকুরীজীবী , শিক্ষক , বেসরকারি চাকরিজীবি আছে যারা উচ্চ শিক্ষিত হয়েও ৮০০০ টাকা পায়না ।অনেকে আবার লাখ লাখ টাকা ঘুষ দেয় ৬০০০ টাকা বেতনের সরকারি চাকুরী পাওয়ারজন্য সেখানে এসব অদ্ভুত অবান্তর দাবি তুলে কারখানা, যানবাহন ভাংচুর করে দেশের কোটি কোটি টাকার সম্পদ ধ্বংস করছে।
এদেশে কখনোই কোন শ্রমিক সংগঠন শিল্প বাঁচিয়ে শ্রমিকদের স্বার্থ ঠিক রাখার কথা ভাবেনা। এমনকি সাধারন শ্রমিকদের স্বার্থের কথাও চিন্তা করে না। ওরা টাকার বিনিময়ে বিভিন্ন রাজনৈতিক তথা দেশি বিদেশী স্বার্থানেসী মহলের প্রোরোচনায় সাধারন শ্রমিকদের বিপথে ঠেলে দিচ্ছে। বিনিময়ে ওরা টাকার পাহাড় গড়লেও সাধারন শ্রমিকদের ভাগ্যে তার সিকে ফোটাও জুটে না।
উদাহরন হিসেবে পাট শিল্প কারখানার শ্রমিকদের বলা যেতে পারে যারা শুধু অধিকার আদায়ের জন্য আন্দোলনে কখনো পিছপা হতনা কিন্তু কারখানায় ঠিকভাবে কাজ করা কিংবা উৎপাদন বাড়ানোর কথা তারা কখনোই ভাবতনা ,ভাবত মালিকরা জালেম ,আমাদের রক্তে টাকা বানায়, যার পরিণাম আমরা পাট শিল্পর অবস্থা থেকেহাড়ে হাড়ে টের পাচ্ছি। এভাবে চলতে থাকলে অদুর ভবিষ্যতে আমাদের বস্ত্রশীল্পও পাট শিল্পের মত করুন পরিনীতির শিকার হবে।
সরকারের এহেন হীন ভুমিকায় দেখে মনে হচ্ছে ‘ রোম জ্বলছে আর নীরো বাশি বাজাচ্ছে। হিরক রাজার রাজ্যকেও হার মানিয়েছে এই দেশ। যে দেশের মোট রপ্তনি আয়ের ৮৪% আসে টেক্সটাইল ও গার্মেন্টস সেক্টর থেকে। এবং ২০১২-২০১৩ অর্থবছরে এর রপ্তানি ২১.৫ বিলিয়ন ইউ এস ডলার এবং ২০১৩-২০১৪ অর্থবছরে এর রপ্তানি ২৪.৫ বিলিয়ন ইউ এস ডলার, এমন একটা গুরুত্বপুর্ন সেক্টর নিয়ে সরকার হীন রাজনীতি ও ক্ষমতার উম্মত্ততায় লিপ্ত হচ্ছে।
আমার জানা মতে গার্মেন্টস শিল্পে এগিয়ে থাকা শ্রিলংকার গৃহযুদ্ধের পরই সেদেশের অনেক ব্যাবসা আমরা পেয়েছি এবং তা ধরেও রাখছি। এদেশের শিল্প ধংস হলে আরও কার লাভ হতে পারে, সেদিকগুলোও ভেবে দেখা দরকার বৈকি!
সম্প্রতি চিনে শ্রমিকের খরচ বেড়ে যাওয়ায় তাদের পরিকল্পনা কিছু শিল্পকে অন্যদেশে স্থানান্তরিত করা. বাংলাদেশের পোশাক শ্রমিক সস্তা হওয়ায় এবং তাদের দক্ষতা বেশি হওয়ায় একটি সম্ভবনা আছে চিনের পোশাক শিল্পের একটি বড় অংশ ভবিষ্যতে বাংলাদেশে স্থানান্তরিত হবার. যেকোনো উপায়ে অস্থিরতা তৈরী করে বাংলাদেশের পোশাক শ্রমিকদের মজুরি যদি অতি মুল্যায়িত করা যায় তবে ভারতের জন্য একটি সুযোগ তৈরী হবে.কেননা তাদের কম দক্ষ অথচ সস্তা শ্রমিক নিয়ে বাংলাদেশের সাথে প্রতিযোগিতা করা সহজ হবে. আমাদেরকেই ঠিক করতে হবে আমরা কি করব…..
যেকোনো পরিস্থিতিতে স্থান-কাল-পাত্র ও সামগ্রিক পরিপ্রেক্ষিত থেকে স্বাধীনভাবে চিন্তা করলে ভাঙচুর-সংঘর্ষ যেই করুক না কেন এসব কাজ নিন্দনীয় হিসেবে গণ্য হতে পারে। তাছাড়া শ্রমিকেরা যেভাবে রাস্তায় নেমে এসে ভাঙচুর চালাচ্ছেন, সংঘর্ষে লিপ্ত হচ্ছেন তার দ্বারা তাদের পক্ষে ইতিবাচক কোনো কিছু অর্জিত হওয়ার সম্ভাবনা নেই। সুতরাং তাদের এই কর্মকাণ্ড এমনিতে স্বাভাবিক অবস্থায় সমর্থন করা চলে না!!!
তবুও গার্মেন্টস শিল্পের বিকাশে তাদের অবদান এবং তাদের অক্লান্ত পরিশ্রমের কথা বিবেচনা করে সবার উচিত দায়িত্বপূর্ণ আচরনের মাধ্যমে সুষ্ঠুভাবে সমঝোতার মাধ্যমে মালিক-শ্রমিকউভয়ের গ্রহণযোগ্য একটা বেতন কাঠামো নির্ধারণকরা ।
প্রত্যেক গার্মেন্টস কারখানা কমপস্নায়েন্স উত্তীর্ণ হওয়া বাধ্যতামূলক হওয়া আবশ্যক এবং এর ফলে নিরাপত্তা সুদৃঢ় হবে ও অনেক সমস্যা দূরীভূত হবে।গার্মেণ্টস শিল্পেসংঘটিত অপরাধ সমূহের বিচারের জন্য একটি বিশেষ ‘গার্মেন্টস ট্রাইবুনাল’ গঠনকরা যেতে পারে। আমাদের গার্মেণ্টস শিল্পে নিয়োজিত শ্রমিকরা (যাদের অধিকাংশই হচ্ছেন নারী-শ্রমিক) কিছুদিন পর-পর আমাদের চোখের অশ্রু ঝরিয়ে দলে-দলে প্রাণ বিসর্জন দেবে, মালিকদের লোভের বলিতে পরিণত হবে, তারপরও গার্মেন্টস টিকে থাকবে– এরকম ভাবাটা অন্যায়।
আমরা অর্থমূল্যে জীবনের ক্ষতিপূরণে আর বিশ্বাস করি না। অনেক হয়েছে, আর নয়।
শ্রমিক ভাই বোনদের অনুরোধ করছি, আপনারা নিজেদের পেটে লাথি দিবেন না।
আলোচিত রানা প্লাজায় দূর্ঘটনার পরও মালিক পক্ষ তাদের দায় অস্বীকার করেছেন, এ জাতীয় দূর্ঘটনা ঘটতে থাকলে চীনভারতের ষড়যন্ত্র লাগবে না, বিদেশে এমনিতেই আমাদের কোটা কমিয়ে দেবে।আগেইবলেছি যে সরকারের ওপর তেমন ভরসার কিছু নেই।সচেতন হতে হবে সাধারন নাগরিক দেরই, প্রশ্ন করতে হবে “হোয়্যার ইজ আওয়ার কনশাসনেস”।দূর্ঘটনা, প্রানহানী সব দেশেই কিছু না কিছু ঘটে।তবে তদন্ত হয়, দোষী লোকে শাস্তিপায়, ভবিষ্যতের জন্য শিক্ষা নেওয়া হয়।দায় অস্বীকারের সংস্কৃতি আর কতদিন? যে দেশে দায় নিজ কাঁধে নেবার মত লোক বেশী নেই সে দেশ খুবই দূর্ভাগা। দায় স্বীকার সভ্যতার মাত্রা নির্নায়ক।