Operation Breakdown, Sewing Thread and SMV Calculation of a Polo Shirt

Calculation of SAM/SMV:

Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.

Step 2: Capture cycle time for that operation by stop watch standing beside of the operator. (cycle time: total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation). Do time study for consecutive five cycles. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time we get from time study is called cycle time.
Basic Time = Cycle Time X Performance rating

* Performance rating: Performance rating means at what performance level operator doing the job, considering his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes

Step 3: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now we get Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes.

OPERATION BREAKDOWN AND SMV
Name of Operation	M/C name	SMV	Manpower
Placket Iron	IRON	0.40	2
Placket Join Position Mark	TABLE	0.30	1
Placket Join	1N2TLS	0.32	2
Placket Front Middle Cut	TABLE	0.28	1
Rib Placket Servicing	O/L	0.25	1
Lower Placket 2 Part Join	1N2TLS	0.30	1
Lower Placket O/L	2N4TOL	0.28	1
Lower Placket Join & Top Stitch	1N2TLS	0.32	2
Nose Tack	1N2TLS	0.35	1
Back & Front Part Matching	TABLE	0.30	1
Shoulder Joint & Trim	2N4TOL	0.33	1
Collar Servicing & Mark	O/L	0.30	1
Collar Tack to Neck	1N2TLS	0.40	2
Collar Join	2N4TOL	0.32	1
Collar Piping	1N2TFL	0.30	1
Collar Top Stitch	1N2TLS	0.60	2
Placket Close & 1/16 T/S	1N2TLS	0.71	3
Placket Inner Tack	1N2TLS	0.35	1
Placket Corner Cut	TABLE	0.25	1
Placket Box Make	1N2TLS	0.50	2
Cuff Servicing	O/L	0.25	1
Cuff Join	2N4TOL	0.40	1
Sleeve Matching	TABLE	0.30	1
Sleeve Join	2N4TOL	0.43	2
Arm Hole Top Stitch	2N3TFL	0.45	1
Cuff Opening Tack	1N2TLS	0.30	1
Sticker Remove+ Body Turn	TABLE	0.20	1
Side Seam	2N4TOL	0.50	2
Cuff Top Tack	1N2TLS	0.22	1
Bottom Hem	2N3TFL	0.24	1
Button Hole	1N2TBH	0.25	1
Button attach With Mark	1N2TBA	0.40	1
Label  Make & Bottom Security Tack	1N2TLS	0.43	2
Total		11.53	44

Sewing Thread Consumption:

Sewing thread requirement 3.44 M for machine code 1N2TLS means to Stitch 1 Meter of Seam, 3.44 meter sewing thread is used.
Here we need to consider operational allowance 3+3=6 cm (starting point+ ending point) for each operation for Lock Stitch and 3.5+3.5= 7 cm for chain stitch , 5+5=10 cm for Flat lock , 6+6=12 cm for over lock with the length of each operation.
Also we need to consider 10-15% wastage on the calculated sewing thread consumption.

SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION
M/C Name	CODE	Required Thread(M/M)
Single Needle Lock Stitch	1N2TLS	3.44
Single Needle 2 Thread Flat Lock	1N2TFL	4.8
Double Needle 3 Thread Flat Lock	2N3TFL	13.2
Double Needle 4 Thread Over lock	2N4TOL	19.8
Without Needle Over lock M/C	O/L	0
Button Attach	1N2TBA	0.3
Button Hole	1N2TBH	0.95