Scope & Challenges to Achieve $50 Billion RMG Exports by 2021

Synopsis:
The export-oriented readymade garments (RMG) sector in Bangladesh, started its journey inlate 1970s as a small non-traditional sector of export. Bangladesh exported RMG worth only US$ 69 thousand when Reaz Garments exported its first consignment to USA in 1978.

By FY 2014-15 within a span of about three and half decades exports have gone up to US$25.49 billion. Over the past decade alone, the sector registered a phenomenal growth rate of around 14.78% per annum & solely contributes over 80% of country’s total export earning which is impressive by any standard.


                             Source: (BKMEA, Facts &Figures)

With significant improvement made in every aspect of quality control, fashion designing, technical expertise, merchandising as well as compliance, the sector is now getting recognition from all the concerned forums.

Now the RMG sector of Bangladesh is expected to retain its position in the global market & moving ahead to achieve $50bn export in 2021, the 50th anniversary of the Republic of Bangladesh (The Daily Sun, 2015) The garment manufacturing sector in Bangladesh has a new slogan: “$50 billion by 2021.” It’s an ambitious vision to reach $50bn in exports by 2021, the 50th anniversary of the Republic of Bangladesh.

Bangladeshi government and industry leaders are determined, and international partners, including the US government, have pledged to support their ambition.

To make the $50bn target, Bangladesh will have to grow exports by 11.87% annually. Over the past 10 years the garment industry has grown by an average of 14.78% annually – which apparently makes sense that $50bn by 2021 within reach.

Scope & Challenges:

•  As the just concluded financial year 2014-15 we have achieved RMG export $25.49 Billion with a shortfall of $1.4 billion from the government-set target of $26.89 billion with a growth rate of 4% whereas last year growth rate was around 14%.
• The average growth rate of 14.78% over the last ten years is skewed by a 43% jump in garment exports between FY 2010 to 2011(12.5 bn to 17.91bn) - a jump we’re unlikely to see again. Excluding that year, export growth averaged just 8.8% during the other five years. 
• To meet their projections, Bangladesh will have to outperform the global apparel industry. The Asia-Pacific apparel export market is expected to grow by 9% annually through 2017, while the global apparel industry is expected to grow by just 5.1% through 2018. To achieve 10.9% growth, Bangladesh will have to gain market share from competitors like China and India all while they seek to grow their own garment exports. (Dhaka Tribune, 2015) 
• Over the last three months, the World Bank estimated political unrest cost Bangladesh’s economy $2.2bn. Partially as a result, fiscal year 2014-15 began on a low note, with garment exports achieving an annualized growth rate of just 3.2%. The more Bangladesh struggles to meet near-term growth projections because of instability, the less confidence we can have that the garment sector will meet its long term targets consistently. 
• In 2014, the World Economic Forum rated Bangladesh’s infrastructure 127th out of 144 countries evaluated. In order to accommodate an additional $25bn in RMG exports, the Bangladeshi government will need to make considerable infrastructure investments in the coming years. 
• Our assessment is that a valuation of $50bn by 2021 is achievable, but far from guaranteed. To stay on track toward this goal, Bangladesh can’t afford the unsustainability that political unrest, poor working conditions and inadequate infrastructure bring to the garment sector. 
• So to achieve 11.87% growth, Bangladesh will have to gain market share from competitors like China and India all while they seek to grow their own garment exports.

The RMG exports achieved $25.49 billion in the FY15 with around 4 percent Growth

The RMG exports achieved $25.49 billion in the FY-15 with around 4 percent growth whereas last year growth rate was around 14 percent.

Even the total export earnings growth hit its 13-year low at 3.35 per cent year-on-year in the just concluded financial year 2014-15 as political turmoil in the country and decline in the ready made garment prices on the global market hurt the export business.



The country’s export earnings in the FY 2014-15 stood at $31.19 billion with a shortfall of $2 billion from the government-set target of $33.20 billion, according to the Export Promotion Bureau data which is released on 7th July.

Experts and exporters said the political turmoil, decreased value of products on the world market, deprecation of the euro and the impact of Rana Plaza building collapse were the reasons for the shortfall in the export target in the FY15.

According to EPB officials, the export earnings from the RMG products in the FY15 witnessed a shortfall of $1.4 billion from the government-set target of $26.89 billion.

The impact of the Rana Plaza building collapse and the slow growth in the US market were the other reasons for the sluggish export earnings growth, Mansur said.

Abdus Salam Murshedy, president of the Exporters Association of Bangladesh, said the export earnings registered a minimal growth in the FY15 as the RMG sector had been going through a transformation since the Rana Plaza building collapse. The Rana Plaza building collapse at Savar, on the outskirts of Dhaka, on April 24, 2013 killed more than 1,100 people, mostly garment workers.

‘At the same time, exporters faced political turmoil in the last two years that hit hard the export business,’ Salam said. Salam, also a former president of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, hoped that despite challenges exporters would overcome the shortfall in the next fiscal year as the political stability was restored in the country. EPB vice-chairman Shubhashish Bose told reporters that the export earnings in the FY15 registered a minimal growth due to price fall of apparel products as the prices of raw materials including cotton and yarn decreased on the international market. According to the EPB vice-chairman, the earnings from knitwear grew by 3.13 per cent while that from woven increased by around 5 per cent.

General concept of industrial Garments Washing for Merchandiser

Wet Process: 

01. Normal Wash/Rinse wash:
Normal garments wash is applied to remove dust, dirt, impurities, size materials (woven), residual starch and unfixed dye form the fabrics of the garments by using around 1% detergent. It is also implied to develop wash look of the garments and to improve the soft hands feel of the garments. Approximate wash price: $ 0.85/DZ

Garments wash with softener
In addition with normal garments wash/rinse wash around 0.1-.05% softener is used here to get ultimate soft hands feel.
Approximate wash price: $ 0.95/DZ

02. Enzyme wash:
Cellulase Enzyme is used for this type of wash to hydrolyze the protruding fibres on the garments fabric surface and to fades color. Pumic stone/cork sheet is used for brushing action which results irregular color fading effect. After enzyme wash if more color fading effect required then it is again bleached by hypochlorite bleaching agent.
It occurs seam abrasion in sewing area; especially develop ‘Bio-Polishing’ effect on the fabric of garments. It also removes hairiness, residual starch, waxes, unfixed dye thus improve the color fastness s and pilling grade.
Approximate wash price: $ 2.0/DZ

03. Pigment wash:
Pigment washing is applied on garments which is made from pigment dyed fabric or pigment printed fabric. By pigment washing fading effect is produced in the garment’s. During pigment wash around 1% detergent is used, fading effect is produced due to the frictional effect on the garments which removes a portion of pigment from the garment fabric surface. Softener is used around 0.1-0.5% if softness feeling is desired.

04. Bleach Wash:
Bleach washing is normally applied on garments which are made from reactive dyed fabric. Caustic soda/soda ash and hydrogen peroxide is used for this washing technique. During this processing period hydrogen peroxide produces per hydroxyl ions which takes part in bleaching action thus fading effect is produced on garments.

05. Acid Wash:
Fading effect is produced on garments in irregular pattern by the use of porous volcanic stones/pumic stone. Pumic stone is soaked with the solution of potassium permanganate and dried in air. Garments are pretreated with desizing agent to remove starch material present in the garments. Then pretreated garments is loaded on the machine with the presoaked stone. Due to biting and brushing action of the stone garments become faded in spot pattern.

06. Stone wash:Volcanic stones are used in such wash abrade exposed parts of the garments, this idea of washing with porous volcanic stones is to give the garment a strong and rough wash to achieve the pronounced washed effect through abrasion on the exposed areas, such as the seams and pocket corners. To get faded look on the garment surface white pumic stone are used with enzymes during washing. During washing fabric come in contact with stones and by rubbing color fades. Stone wash generally used for denim product washing.

07. Vintage Wash
Vintage means old look. To get the old or used appearance garments are washed inside washing machine with pumic stone with heavy enzymes to get a naturally aged looked.

08. Rubber Ball Wash
A rubber wash a product that is promoted as a substitute for laundry detergent. These ball are effective in washing in water without any detergent. Most of the effect can be attributed to the mechanical effect of the ball or to using hot water instead of cold water.

09. Cloud wash:

Cloud wash gives appearance of white patches on the garment surface that looks like cloud in the sky.

10. Tie Dye:

 The process of tie-dye typically consists of folding, twisting, pleating, or crumpling fabric or a garment and binding with string or rubber bands, followed by application of dye. Then apply dye to fabric by squirting dye onto the fabric with a pipette, squeeze bottle, or other dye application tool. After absorbing the
se dye solution onto the fabric , the fabric or garments is untied and washed it out to remove unfix dye.

11. Dip Dye:
Dip dye is a garments dyeing process where garments is hanged on the hanger upon the dye bath. Then the hanger holder is drawn it down as desired level to wet the garments onto the dye solution. Semi bleached fabric garments is treated with Dip Dye.







12. Cool dye/wave dye:
It is a pigment garments dyeing process with room temperature.



13. Tinting/Over Dye:
After wet process or dry process washing, the faded effect of garments are being dyed with very light shade (.001% or .002%). This dyeing process is applied on garments is called tinting or over dyeing.
Some other special wash process is:

· Super Soft Wash
· Paper Touch wash
· Silicon Spray
. Towel Bleach

Dry Process:

01.  Sand Blasting:
Sand Blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high-speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This process is based on blasting an abrasive material mostly sand in granular, powered or other form through a nozzle. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the effect appearing is very similar to the worn out jeans. This is purely a mechanical and water free process, variety of distressed or abraded look is possible.

02. Whiskering:
Whiskers is taken from the worn out lines and impression patterns generated by natural wearing on hips and front thigh area.

Mostly rubber balloons are available with different pattern designs. Garments are mounted on balloons and filled with air to get impressions of whiskers. Garment is scrubbed over pattern carefully with sand paper on engraved pattern lines thus whiksering effect is found.
Engraved patterns on thick board like hard rubber sheets are widely used for whiskers impression making.
This idea is very simple to draw lines on rubber sheets and engrave them with blade. Garment is places on sheet and scrapped on specific area to draw this impression on garmen
t.

03. Potassium permanganate spray (P.P Spray):
Potassium permanganate spray is done on fabric to get a faded effect on sprayed area. This spray is done in specific spray booths. The booths are fitted with proper air exhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment room where the chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers. Potassium permanganate is dissolved in water and the clean air is blown to open. Rubber dummies are installed for holding garments. Garments are mounted on the dummies and air is filled so the garment is full fit exposed.
The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for next process. It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer.

04. Color Spray:
Same process as PP spray, different type of color is sprayed here.

05. Wrinkle/Crinkle Finish:
Wrinkle or Crinkle effect means a desired creased of folded effect on garments, the desired creased of folded attributed is prepared and clamped by clip, after that it is spared by resin and make it fixed.


06. Destroyed Denim:
‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim look unique & used. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting it through knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp yarns.

Different types of machine used for destroy the garments. Such as-
•Grinding Machine.
•Emery Cloth.
•Hacksaw Blade

•Needle.
•Knife etc.

Universities for higher education in Textile and related discipline.

In the UK

UK is preferred for many students for higher studies because of its rich history, quality education and short programme (3 yrs undergraduate, 1 yr MS and 3 yr PhD) and due to requirements of IELTS only compared to TOEFL and GRE in the US. Usual IELTS requirement is 6.5+, depending on the university. Bangladeshi student generally prefers first four universities in the list. Funding will be difficult unless you are very talented with research value or under government scholarship.

The University of Manchester http://www.manchester.ac.uk (One of the best universities for textile technology with a rich history)

University of Leeds http://www.textiles.leeds.ac.uk/ (Very good university)

University of Bolton http://www.bolton.ac.uk (Set up a modern textile lab)

Heriot-watts university http://www.tex.hw.ac.uk/ (Earlier it was one of the best university for textile)

Manchester Metropolitan university http://www.artdes.mmu.ac.uk/textiles/ (MA in Textiles)

London Metropolitan University http://www.londonmet.ac.uk (MA in Textile Design)

Royal College of Art http://www.rca.ac.uk/ (MA/MPhil/PhD in Textile)

University college Falmouth http://www.falmouth.ac.uk (MA in Textile Design)

University of Huddersfield http://www.hud.ac.uk/ (MA in Textile)

De Montfort University http://www.dmu.ac.uk/ (MPhil/PhD in Textile Engineering and Materials)

Europe, other than UK

In Europe, Germany and Sweden is preferred as there is no requirement of tuition fee. In Germany , it is usually 2 yr MS course, required German language proficiency and it is possible to get fund through http://www.daad.de or through university funding. There are many other universities in different countries with textile and fashion degree which may not includ here.

Dresden University, Germany http://www.inf.tu-dresden.de/

Very good university for textile engineering and clothing management. Many Bangladeshi students prefer this university as their destination.

Niederrhein University, Germany http://www.hs-niederrhein.de

One of the few universities in western Germany which offers textile courses . Few advantages are that courses are in English, very little tuition fee per semester and recently they signed an agreement with NITRAD.

Boras University, Sweden http://www.hb.se

Courses are in English and there is a possibility that from next year they are going to charge tuition fee. Master course is 1yrs and requirement of IELTS is 5.5+

University of Copenhegen, Denmark http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/

Politecnico di Torino, Italy http://www.dismic.polito.it/

Mainly masters in textile engineering also there is a opportunity of higher studies in material engineering.

ENSAIT Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles, France http://www.ensait.fr/dcen/index.php?Accueil

MS in Technical textiles (Chemistry or Mechanics) and Supply Chain Management/Info Design. Require elementary French

Universidade Do Minho, Portugal http://www.det.uminho.pt

Textile chemistry, textile technology, apparel technology and textile management and design. In portugese.

IN Australia

IELTS is mandatory, 7+ or English courses which can be done under university. Funding can be possible through university, but no other scholarship is provided in textile area. Australia is renowned for wool and its processing and most leading country for research on wool.

Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology http://www.rmit.edu.au

Leading university for design, merchandising, textile technology course

University of New South Wales http://www.unsw.edu.au

PhD in Textile Technology

Curtin University of Technology http://www.curtin.edu.au

Master of Design

Deakin university http://www.deakin.edu.au/

MS and PhD in fibers and textiles.

In the US

In The US, TOEFL and GRE is must for MS and PhD: the requirment varies from university to university. The higher degree in textile here comes under many umbrella from material science to fiber to cosumer studies, supply chain, industrial engineering etc. NCSU offers full range of course from traditional textile technology to todays textile management.

North Carolina State University (NCSU) http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/

All types of courses from technology to management. Ranked top for textile in the US

Georgia Institute of Technology http://www.ptfe.gatech.edu/

Polymer, Textile and Fiber Engineering

Cornell University http://www.cornell.edu/

MS/ PhD in apparel design, IVY league university

Philadelphia University http://www.philau.edu/bste/

M.S. in Textile Design, MS/PhD in Textile Engineering and science

Iowa State University http://www.public.iastate.edu/~catalog/2007-2009/courses/tc.html#GRADUATE

MSc/PhD in Textile and Clothing

University Of Massachusetts Dartmouth http://www.umassd.edu/

MSc in Textile Chemistry

University of Missouri http://www.missouri.edu/

MS/ PhD in Textile and Apparel Management

University of Rhode Island http://www.uri.edu/

MS in Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design

Ball State University http://cms.bsu.edu/

MS in apparel design/fashion merchandising

University of Kansas http://www.ku.edu/

M.F.A. in Textile Design

Kansas State University http://www.k-state.edu/

MSc in apparel and Textile

Western Michigan University http://www.wmich.edu/

MA in Family & Consumer Sciences – Textile & Apparel Studies

Washington State University http://www.wsu.edu

MA in Design: Textile/Merchandising

University of Nebraska- Lincoln http://www.unl.edu/

MA Textile – Apparel Option II

Kent State University http://www.kent.edu

Master of Fine Arts in Textile Arts

In Asia, other than Bangladesh

In Asia (other than Bangladesh), many universities of India offers textile degree, however, IIT, Delhi is best among them. There are many other universities in Turkey, Srilanka, Egypt, Korea, Czechoslovakia who offers textile degree courses, however, the author cannot comment on their quality and it may happen it has to be earned in their own language. Japan also sees lots of polymer science/ material science students from Bangladesh for Masters and PhD, and their information will be informed later.

Indian Institute of Technolgy, Delhi http://www.iitd.ac.in/textile/

MS and PhD in Textile Technology

HK polytechnique university http://www.polyu.edu.hk/cpa/polyu/main/main_e.php

MA in Fashion and Textile Design/ Fashion & Textile

Donghua University, China http://www.ices.cn/english/course1/content/jxj.htm

Leading University in Fashion, Textile and International Trade in China and there is possibility of getting fund.

Zhongyuan University of Technology, China http://202.196.32.47/english/

It is possible to complete PhD in Eng.

With courtesy: Shiyak vai

Strategy of job switching in Textile & RMG sector

• In the present market situation Job is like a golden deer, so all of the mental pressure works before getting a job, in that situation only a lucrative job can solace the victim's ruffle mind. Because without job changing it’s quite impossible to develop your career, it’s sad but true. 

       

• Lucrative jobs includes all the everything, Almost all the compliance group of companies compensation practices is same, those who don’t have standard compensation practice they can’t never offer you a lucrative Job, which involves premium salary, premium facilities, standard working environment. 

• If you have good communication with your senior brother obviously it might be extra advantages. But your focuses should be to develop yourself not only to maintain communication with your senior brother, without maintaining any communication with your senior, you might be successful in your professional arena by developing yourself but without developing yourself you can't never survive. 

• You shouldn't never be concern about your reporting boss, working environment, it’s the only way to demoralize someone. Just be confident like this way, If one person can work under his supervision, though his behavior is too ugly, I might be the 2nd person (if possible the only one) able to work under his supervision. Working environment goes as the same way,So don’t pay heed to any rumor. No matter whether your reporting boss is BUTexian or not, after all he is a human being and it represents your performance to adapt with anyone or in any situation. 

•  Not matter whether your company is the top most leading company in the Textile and RMG sector. It’s the fact about your learning opportunities, how much you can contribute here, your importance in that company, how much you are being evaluated here. If all of these answers are positive then just dedicate yourself to establish your company as the top most leading company. Obviously it’s the greater achievement to establish your company as Brand Icon rather working in a Brand Company.(partially applicable for fresher and if the company is B graded) 

• You should continue at least two years in a company if it seems that you want to develop your career on that specific sector. But not more than two years if there is any discontentment. If your company cant evaluate you within 2 years, so far they can’t evaluate you in the next 20 years. At the same time if it seems that you can’t perform here only due to lack of level playing field then you should quit this job, because condition goes to the same, so far you can’t perform here in the next 20 years. 

• Always remind that your leaning period is maximum 2-3 years, during this time you must have to capture the all and need to achieve managerial ability. Obviously you will learn through your lifetime, but situation is different, it can be defined as ‘learning or acquiring experience through implementation or working’.

LOVE, ITS ETERNITY & PERPETUITY

You don’t need years to sprout love , just a moment is enough. It can blossom any time. Often it is said about pure love, but is there any another definition about true love? Is It possible to love someone in a fake way? Love is the feelings of emotion, illusion, passion or fondness of a heart. It is developed through the Amygdala portion of our brain. No external matter can influence or accelerate the feeling of a heart. It’s the mystery of nature. Its more important to make this feelings of heart sustainable. We need to improve the perpetuity, permanency, durability, constancy, stability & persistency of our love.

To facilitate it, we need to reinforce the basement of love, such as trust, respect, understanding, and reliability. Only then we can find the essence of love. Another things is that human mind doesn’t know what they want. Its very natural tendency to loss the interest about what he have and looking something new!! To overcome it, we don’t need to love a thousand girls, we just need to love one girl in a thousand ways. We don’t need to conquer a thousand mind, just need to conquer one mind in thousand times, we don’t need to be anxious about how deep is our love, we just need to concern how much we can implement our love in our conjugal life. only then our love will never be wither or blur.

List of Restricted Substances (RSL) Used in Textiles and Apparels

The Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) Regulation places controls on the supply and use of certain chemical substances on their own, in preparations or mixtures or in articles (finished products). These controls apply to substances that can be particularly harmful to human health or the environment.

Under EU REACH regulation, substances that are one of the following can be regarded as substance of very high concern(SVHC):

• Carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction

• Persistent, bio-accumulative and toxic

• Very persistent and bio-accumulative

• Seriously and/or irreversibly damaging the environment or human health

• Substances damaging the hormone system.

1. Phthalates:

Phthalates is the name of a group of chemical substances based on phthalic acid. Phthalates are a group of plasticizers with softening and elastic effects. They are widely used in apparels in Softener, print paste especially rubber print and plastisol print, Synthetic fibre and its blends, Polyester button, polyurethane and polyvinylchloride coating.

Studies have shown that men’s sperm reduction over the past few decades may be related to the use of phthalates as softeners. Experts also found phthalates contained in soft plastic toys and children’s products may be placed in the mouth of a child. However, placing long enough in the mouth will result in phthalates dissolution in excess of safety standards, which endangers children’s liver and kidneys.

Some phthalates have been shown to have endocrine-disrupting effects which can interfere with endocrine or hormone system in mammals. These disruptions can cause cancerous tumors, birth defects, and other developmental disorders.

Three phthalates Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate(DEHP), Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) and Benzylbutyl phthalate(BBP) are classified by the EU REACH as harmful and restricted if the contents exceed the limit 0.1% or 1000 PPM.

2. Formaldehyde:

Formaldehyde is a commonly used chemical compound that exists in various forms and at room temperature, is a colorless, distinctive, strong and even pungent smelling, flammable and gaseous substance.

• Formaldehyde is a volatile organic compound that: 
• is readily soluble in water 
• breaks down rapidly 
• is produced and metabolized in the human body 
• does not accumulate in the human body or environment 

Formaldehyde can be found in dyeing and printing for fixation or preservation of dyes and prints. It is frequently used as an anti-creasing and anti-shrinking agent used for wrinkle free treatment and it can also be found in permanent press, artificially stiffened fabric and Stain resistance substances. It is also used to keep garments looking new and fresh while in transit and to retard mildew growth.

• Fixing agents for direct and reactive dyes in cellulose fibers
• Anti-wrinkle and anti-shrinking resins used in the finishing processes
• Resins used in permanent wrinkles in textile articles made of cellulose fibers, mainly in denim product.
•  Heat transfer adhesives used as binders in dye printing.
• Heat transfer adhesives used in several types of printing processes, such as flock and foil, among others.
• Reducing agent present in printing
• Resins and binding agents in some special finishes and coatings.
•  Products for tanning and softening of leather.
• Anti-microbial agents in pastes used in water-based printing

Formaldehyde can cause allergy, irritation and eczema, asthma, contact dermatitis, irritation of the nose, eyes, and other adverse effects like headaches, depression, insomnia and it is a suspected carcinogen. It can be present in two forms: free on the surface of fabrics, or released in a vapor form from fabrics.

It is forbidden to use formaldehyde-based products to produce fabrics for the following garments:

Children wear (0–3 years), Underwear and Nightwear - Free Formaldehyde is limited to <20ppm in these garments. All other products are limited to <75ppm free formaldehyde.

3. AZO Dye:
AZO dyes are the name of the group of synthetic dyestuffs based on nitrogen that are often used in textile industry. Some AZO dyestuffs may separate under certain conditions to produce carcinogenic and allergenic aromatic amines.

The EU AZO Colorants Directive sets out that Azo dyes which may release one or more of the 22 aromatic amines in detectable concentrations, above 30 ppm in the finished articles or in the dyed components may not be used in textile articles which may come into direct and prolonged contact with the human skin or oral cavity.

4. Dimethyl Fumarate (DMF):
Dimethyl fumarate (DMF) is commonly used as an anti-fungal agent to kill molds that may cause clothing to deteriorate during storage and wearing. It evaporates and impregnates the product, protecting it from molds. However, it can then also affect consumers who are in contact with the products.

DMF can penetrate through the clothes onto skin where it can cause painful skin contact dermatitis, including itching, irritation, redness, and burns; in some cases, acute respiratory troubles.

Products containing DMF exceeding the limits of 0.1 PPM are prohibited from being placed or made available on the market.

5. Alkylphenols (APs) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs)
Alkylphenol Ethoxylates and Alkylphenols are considered to be harmful to the environment and possible endocrine disrupters. EC is forced to limit concentrations to 0.1% in its products. The most common usage is in detergent products. The second most common use is in textile processing where it is used in various textiles auxiliaries including wetting agents and in the manufacture of water based pigment pastes to improve pigment dispersion.

6. Phenols: Pentachlorophenol (PCP) & Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP)
PCP (Pentachlorophenol), TeCP (Tetrachlorophenol) it’s salts and esters are forbidden in the manufacturing of Apparel. They are used as pesticides/fungicides to prevent mold spot (caused by fungi). Chlorinated phenols are applied directly onto natural fibres, their blends and leather. Both PCP and TeCP are very toxic and are regarded as cancer-inducing substances

7. Tributyltin (TBT) & Dibutyltin (DBT)
Tributyltin (TBT) is an organotin compound used for anti-microbial finishing. High concentrations are considered toxic. This substance can be taken up via the skin and may affect the nervous system. In the textile industry, organotin compounds have been used for preventing the bacterial degradation of sweat and the corresponding unpleasant odour of socks, shoes and sports clothes.
TBT levels must be below 0.5ppm for Babywear and 1.0ppm for all other apparel.

Dibutyltin (DBT) is also an organotin compound with various applications, such as an intermediate for stabilisers of polyvinyl chloride, a catalyst for electrodeposition paints, a catalyst for various types of polyurethanes and as a catalyst for esterification

8. Polychlorinated biphenyls(PCBs) Polychlorinated terphenyls (PCTs)
Chlorinated organic carriers such as polychlorinated biphenyls(PCBs) and polychlorinated terphenyls (PCTs) are mainly used as pesticides but also as softeners, carriers and flame retardants. They are large, stable molecules that can easily accumulate in organisms and in the environment. They can affect the liver, hormone, immune and nervous systems. They must not present in garments.

9. Arylamines:
Arylamines are chemical substances, harmful for human health, that can be part of the structure of some dyes –Azo Dyes– and which, under certain conditions, can be released from them and absorbed by the human body through the action of sweat

Acceptable limits: maximum 20 PPM

10. Perfluorooctane Sulfonates(PFOS) & Perfluorooctanoic acid( PFOA)
Perfluorooctane Sulfonates (PFOS) is a fully fluorinated anion, are surfactants widely used as the surface acting agent in textile wet processing. It is also used for its waterproofing oil and stain resistance properties. Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and its salts are suspected to have a similar risk profile to PFOS. Maximum 1 μg/m2 is permissible for textile products.

11. Heavy Metals:
· Nickel:

Nickel is now the most frequent cause of contact allergy which may found in garments accessories like Zipper, Hook, Stud, Poppers, Sank Button, Snap Button, Rivet etc. It is no longer permitted to sell articles with nickel-containing metal parts which have direct and prolonged skin contact. Metal components must be tested to ensure that they are nickel-free – that is, have no more than 0.01% Nickel. The ‘lack of nickel’ has to be guaranteed for 2 years and has to remain below 0.5μg/cm2 surface/week (migration)

· Chromium
Chromium compounds are classified as carcinogenic. So it must not be present in apparels.

· Cadmium
A limit of 1 ppm is permissible in Cadmium and its combination which can be found in paints, plastisol prints, PVC and PU fabrics.

· Lead
Lead is a “heavy metal” that is used as: metal; alloy for the production of accessories; pigment. Lead can be found in a great variety of textile and leather/fur products, such as: accessories made from metals or alloys, some components of a variety of chemicals used in pigments. Limits: Maximum 30 ppm is permissible for Lead in non-fabric component (zippers, drawstrings, snaps, buttons, among others)

· Mercury
Mercury is a ‘heavy metal’ that can be found in the solid, liquid or gas states (in organic or inorganic compounds). Mercury can be found in textile and leather/fur products in general. Contamination occurs during the production of sodium hydroxide and/or sodium chloride using the ‘Mercury cell process’. Contamination during the extrusion of polymers where it is used as a preservative. Therefore contaminate with water during the wet processing of textiles.
Limits: No detection is acceptable in textiles in direct and prolonged contact with the skin.

Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Process, Save around 50% Water.

Cold Pad Batch Dyeing:

Pad Batch Dyeing is one of the widely used technique for semi-continuous dyeing process. It is mainly used in the dyeing of cellulosic fiber like cotton or viscose (knit and woven especially woven fabric) with reactive dyes. Pad batch dyeing is a textile dyeing process that offers some unique advantages in the form of versatility, simplicity, and flexibility and a substantial reduction in capital investment for equipment. It is primarily a cold method that is the reason why it is sometimes referred to as the cold pad batch dyeing.

A report provided by a Leading fabric supplier Wah Fung Group showing that its Cold Pad Batch dyeing technology achieves 13% carbon savings and over 50% water savings in fabric manufacturing compared with the conventional processes using exhaust dyeing.

Cold Pad Batch technology, although used in Europe, has not been widely adopted in other developing country because the capital cost is higher than conventional technology. But it is believed that improved environmental impact, resource efficiency savings and the higher quality of CPB-dyed fabric present a strong alternative than the conventional exhaust dyeing .

The Cold Pad Batch (CPB) method is relatively more environment friendly due to high dye fixation and non requirement of thermal energy.The CPB method for dyeing cotton involves ultrasonic energy resulting into a one third decrease in batching time.

•  Improved colour strength and % fixation of reactive dyes using ultrasonic energy in CPB method. 
• A significant decrease of four hours in batching time (from 12 hours to 8 hours) is achieved. 
• The reduced batching time provides one and half time more production in the given time. 
• A one third decrease in concentrations of caustic soda and sodium carbonate has also been achieved. 
• This would result into a reduced chemical cost as well as a subsequent environmental benefit.

Working Principle of Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Process: 

The technique or process used in pad-batch dyeing starts with saturating first the prepared fabric with pre-mixed dye liquor. Then it is passed through rollers. The rollers, or padders, effectively forces the dyestuff into the fabric. In the process, excess dye solution is also removed. After removal of excess dye stuff the fabric is subsequently “batched”. This batching is done by either storing it in rolls or in boxes. It takes a minimum of 4-12 hours. The batches are generally enclosed by plastic films. This prevents absorption of carbon dioxide and water evaporation. Finally as the reaction is complete the fabrics are washed. This is done by becks, beams, or any other washing devices.

Special Features of Pad Batch Dyeing Process

• Significant cost and waste reduction as compared to other conventional dyeing processes. 
• Total elimination of the need for salt and other specialty chemicals. For example there is no need for anti-migrants, leveling agents and fixatives that are necessary in conventional dye baths. 
• Optimum utilization of dyes that eliminates specialty chemicals, cuts down chemical costs and waste loads in the effluent. All this results in a formidable reduction in waste water treatment costs. 
• Excellent wash fastness properties. 
• Pad batch dyeing cuts energy and water consumption owing to low bath ratio (dye:water) required for the process. This is because unlike other dyeing processes it does not function at high temperatures. 
• A uniform dye quality is achieved with even color absorbency and colour fastness. 
• As compared to rope dyeing, Pad batch dyeing produces much lower defect levels. 
• In pad batch dyeing, qualities like high shade reliability and repeat-ability are common. This is because of high reactivity dyes with rapid fixation rate and stability. 
• Lastly Pad batch dyeing can also improve product quality. The fabric undergoing the cold pad batch dyeing process is able to retain an uniformly colored appearance. It shows added luster and gives a gentle feel. The fabric gives a brighter look in shades.

Operation Breakdown, Sewing Thread and SMV Calculation of a Polo Shirt

Calculation of SAM/SMV:

Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.

Step 2: Capture cycle time for that operation by stop watch standing beside of the operator. (cycle time: total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation). Do time study for consecutive five cycles. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time we get from time study is called cycle time.
Basic Time = Cycle Time X Performance rating

* Performance rating: Performance rating means at what performance level operator doing the job, considering his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes

Step 3: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now we get Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes.

OPERATION BREAKDOWN AND SMV
Name of Operation	M/C name	SMV	Manpower
Placket Iron	IRON	0.40	2
Placket Join Position Mark	TABLE	0.30	1
Placket Join	1N2TLS	0.32	2
Placket Front Middle Cut	TABLE	0.28	1
Rib Placket Servicing	O/L	0.25	1
Lower Placket 2 Part Join	1N2TLS	0.30	1
Lower Placket O/L	2N4TOL	0.28	1
Lower Placket Join & Top Stitch	1N2TLS	0.32	2
Nose Tack	1N2TLS	0.35	1
Back & Front Part Matching	TABLE	0.30	1
Shoulder Joint & Trim	2N4TOL	0.33	1
Collar Servicing & Mark	O/L	0.30	1
Collar Tack to Neck	1N2TLS	0.40	2
Collar Join	2N4TOL	0.32	1
Collar Piping	1N2TFL	0.30	1
Collar Top Stitch	1N2TLS	0.60	2
Placket Close & 1/16 T/S	1N2TLS	0.71	3
Placket Inner Tack	1N2TLS	0.35	1
Placket Corner Cut	TABLE	0.25	1
Placket Box Make	1N2TLS	0.50	2
Cuff Servicing	O/L	0.25	1
Cuff Join	2N4TOL	0.40	1
Sleeve Matching	TABLE	0.30	1
Sleeve Join	2N4TOL	0.43	2
Arm Hole Top Stitch	2N3TFL	0.45	1
Cuff Opening Tack	1N2TLS	0.30	1
Sticker Remove+ Body Turn	TABLE	0.20	1
Side Seam	2N4TOL	0.50	2
Cuff Top Tack	1N2TLS	0.22	1
Bottom Hem	2N3TFL	0.24	1
Button Hole	1N2TBH	0.25	1
Button attach With Mark	1N2TBA	0.40	1
Label  Make & Bottom Security Tack	1N2TLS	0.43	2
Total		11.53	44

Sewing Thread Consumption:

Sewing thread requirement 3.44 M for machine code 1N2TLS means to Stitch 1 Meter of Seam, 3.44 meter sewing thread is used.
Here we need to consider operational allowance 3+3=6 cm (starting point+ ending point) for each operation for Lock Stitch and 3.5+3.5= 7 cm for chain stitch , 5+5=10 cm for Flat lock , 6+6=12 cm for over lock with the length of each operation.
Also we need to consider 10-15% wastage on the calculated sewing thread consumption.

SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION
M/C Name	CODE	Required Thread(M/M)
Single Needle Lock Stitch	1N2TLS	3.44
Single Needle 2 Thread Flat Lock	1N2TFL	4.8
Double Needle 3 Thread Flat Lock	2N3TFL	13.2
Double Needle 4 Thread Over lock	2N4TOL	19.8
Without Needle Over lock M/C	O/L	0
Button Attach	1N2TBA	0.3
Button Hole	1N2TBH	0.95